Day 1
Today we arrived in Pasto, Nariño. The 3rd of January after a ten hour bus ride! to miss the parade of that day but we were not too worried because there will be more, but we didn’t plan accordingly I guess.
Our first recommendation for Pasto & the Blacks and Whites’ Carnival is to show up early. Everything gets expensive and everything also gets busy so finding a place to stay and means of getting there are reasonably as important.
Pasto’s carnival on a budget: We arrived by buss costing us two of 120k Colombian pesos for two ($47 CAD) The buss we got was economic and we arrived at the terminal at 5:30 am to find only two seats remaining from a the bus company, we used Cootranar, we ended up departing at 6 am.
We refused to pay close to $700 CAD for a plane ticket for the two of us to get here and returned home to Cali. We waited too late and could not find accommodations fitting of our budget, but our Auntie Maria Teresa, who has a birthday on the 3rd of January and who is also from Pasto was able help us find free accommodations. We know not everyone has an auntie native to Pasto but if Airbnb and hostels aren’t available you could try couch surfing.
Day 2
La familia Castañeda. It was once a big family who was loud and would come for groceries and food to Pasto, originally this portion of the parade was one family now it has become a tradition to put everything together to celebrate the individual idea on the particular day.
Following the parade, we went to the Plaza de Nariño in the center, which had a public concert with dancing and celebration mixing with the chalk ($1K COP a bag), black paint and a new take on the event the carioca (which is a spray foam and we paid $8K COP for a Big can). Originally the white chalk and the black paint where on separate days now the event has mixed all into a medley just like locals and foreigners alike.
The event is all over town and only one rule is in effect don’t spray or attack anyone who is eating. If you follow this rule you should have no problems. Also one thing I have not read is to keep your mouth closed. Which I learned terribly quick, the bad way.
In the evening we went to a place called Cuyquer. To have a very traditional dish to Pasto, that is had to celebrate an event or special occasion. Guinea pig in English and called cuy between locals. It’s preparation was delicate and polished it was a fantastic way to end a great day, on top of a game of sapo, which I recommend everyone play.
In the game of sapo there is a frog which has an open mouth to get your token in to get the maximum rewards and never in my life have I seen 3 in one game all for the team I was on. Yes of course Meli and Me won with special help from our host family, German and Sonia, also our cousin was there. What a fantastic way to spend day 2!
Day 3
We woke up relatively late had breakfast with our host family and prepared to visit family friends outside of Pasto. We had lunch with them and their family and prepared for dinner upon returning to town.
Following dinner we started a tradition of traveling around town with locals to see the floats for tomorrow. They are spread around town where the artisans have their shops and only the press has a list to see them all and know their locations. How we got this list I’m not eligible to disclose. Friends in high places haha, but you travel around viewing the floats almost complete as they will have a progression on the 6th of January and a competition to see whose is the best.
The floats are partially complete and you show up to the parade the next day complete, it is astonishing to see the work they put in all night. It is not unfamiliar for the artists to work through the night to prepare the floats for the following morning.
The fifth of January was the day of the blacks which traditionally people paint their faces black. We missed it to spend time with friends and family. Which is what the locals originally did before the arrival of slaves by the Spanish, the natives here worked 6 days a week and this introduction of foreign slavery gave the locals a day off. The day was used to relax and now to celebrate an additional day to rest, paying homage to the new workers.
Day 4
We woke up bright and early to make it to downtown Pasto and get ready for the parade from around 10 AM to 4 PM or so. Depending on where you are on the parade loop. We spent the morning on a balcony absorbing sunlight and cheers and fun. We spent our afternoon watching floats and dancers and being pelted or showered with candy.
We then geared up for battle. We needed clothes you don’t mind getting dirty, ponchos googles, go pro in hand or head mount, chalk and foam guns or carioca. We then braced for a brave new world one filled with no bars hold chalk and foam and paint to make and create havoc and chaos, from what would be otherwise ordinary people any other day. Everyone slips into an altered state of mind where you are ruthless and also selfless throwing yourself in front of your comrades to protect from chalk and foam. Preying on unsuspecting families, neighbors, people, men, women and children. All who may very well be sizing you up to perpetrate an offence or even a gang of them, hooligans armed to the teeth with weapons and battle strategies of their own.
Meanwhile we broke our stronghold to get supplies aka lunch on the way we encountered much resistance and at one point so much chalk flew threw the air 1 foot in front of you could be a car an enemy a comrade or door, window, tree or any number of things. The air is thick with particles low visibility plagues us all. As we stumble through what on any other day would have been seemingly regular and innocent streets.
We find a place to shelter and get sustenance to continue the marathon of war. As soon as we leave things have settled or so we thought. As night gave way and the sun began to set behind the mountains, the real villains come out armed with the most powerful weapons of all no remorse. Anyone who stays out past dark must be able to hold their own solo or in a pack. We got home only to leave again finding ourselves craving more carnage after some time ganging up on seemingly smaller groups we retreated feeling victorious and glorious in battle covered in chalk and foam from head to toe.
And thinking what a pleasure it is to enjoy such an event with so many different people. The basic human response of fight or flight we love to get back to our unconscious selves.
And that was the end of the carnivals, on a sunday. People were ready to start a new week like nothing happened.
And Meli & Me were ready to get to know Pasto after the Carnivals, and what a beautiful town it is. Don’t miss our next Blog post were we will do Pasto Pt. 2!
Voyage Express 